All Things Iceland Jewells Chambers

This is the third response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.

1. Should I exchange a small amount of currency before I leave? I have heard that Iceland is a cashless society, but I am thinking about tour guide tips or random purchases.- Christina

Iceland is not yet a cashless society, but we are certainly heading quickly in that direction. It isn’t necessary to take out cash in the local currency because debit and credit cards are the preferred method of payment. Also, tipping is not expected or encouraged because companies pay their employees livable wages for their work. You can, of course, take out cash to tip your guide or make random purchases if you prefer to pay that way but that’s up to you because it is not required.

2. Hi, I have another question! You wear such beautiful Icelandic sweaters on your Instagram. Where should I shop when I come in the spring? Somewhere that has really nice ones and doesn’t jack up the prices for tourists? - Alison

Kolaportið is flea market by the old harbor that is only open during weekends. There are some vendors there that are selling handmade Icelandic sweaters for a decent price.Another place is the Handknitting association of Iceland. They have two locations in Reykjavík and all of their sweaters are handknit in the country. One helpful tip is to make sure you get the appropriate form at the store to get the 24% VAT (Value added tax) back at the airport when you leave the country. Iceland has that tax included in the price but they refund it for tourists on certain items.

3. "Hi Jewells,

I have recently discovered your podcast, and have been binge listening to episodes to prepare for my upcoming trip in May! ( I am so excited!) I am learning so much, and I appreciate hearing about your experiences! Thank you!

You mentioned that eating in restaurants is quite pricey in Iceland for a variety of reasons, including allowing restaurant owners to be able to pay their employees a living wage. Is it still customary to leave a tip for waitstaff? If so , is the recommnded amount the same as the US? (20-25%)

Thank you for taking the time to read my question." - Vickie



The great news is that tipping is not part of the culture in Iceland, so you don’t have to factor in any % to your bill. This applies in every place, including cafes.

4. Hi Jewells! My family will be there in June. Is there a traditional event for summer solstice? - Ruth

Unlike other Nordic nations, Iceland does not have nationwide celebrations for the summer solstice. One place that has an annual event is in the far north. It is an island called Grímsey. They have a multiple day festival to celebrate the long and seemingly endless summer day. Here is where you can find the program for last year. I assume they will have the 2024 program soon. Please note that you need to take either a boat or plane to reach Grímsey. I have heard that many people get sea sick on the boat, so keep  that in mind if you choose that option.

5. "Thank you so much for your informative podcasts! My wife and I are planning to visit Iceland for the first time in October 2025. We believe that the best way to experience a new place is to immerse ourselves in it and to attempt to learn the language. What was your experience in learning the Icelandic language, and what do you recommend is a good way/resource to learn the language?" - Gerald

My recommendation for learning Icelandic is to get as much input of the language as you can in a way that you can relate to. Meaning,

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

A Troll Lurking in Iceland’s East Fjords

Mjóifjörður (or narrow fjord) used to have up to 100 inhabitants centuries ago but it is now only about 14 people live there. During the winter it is common for the roads to be completely blocked off and the inhabitants can only be reached by boat.The troll of this story was said to be around centuries ago when there were more people living in the fjord. She lived in a beautiful gorge called Prestagil. It‘s said tha the troll would use her magical powers to make the priests of the church in small farm called Fjörður go mad.

Priests Enchanted by a Hungry Troll

 Her routine was to wait fo the pastor to be at the pulpit of the church on Sunday and then she would wave her hand outside the pulpit window. The pastor would see this and it would somehow enchant him to say:Tear out my guts and my heartOff to the gorge I'll departTear out my lust and my seedTo Mjóifjörður gorge I shall speedAfter saying this, the priest would run out of the church as fast as he could into the gorge where the troll lived and was never seen again. Due to the Troll telling a traveler once that she was nibbling on the head of a former priest of the Fjörður, news spread that the troll was eating the men.Several priests took the position over the years and each one disappeared after being enchanted by the troll. Naturally, priests became too afraid to serve there because they didn’t want to become Troll food.

A Brave Priest Comes Along

Finally, a priest volunteered even though he knew of the danger. What this priest did differently than the others was that he came up with a plan. Before his first mass, he assembled a group of men that normally attended the church.He instructed them to do the following: When the troll tried to enchant him, six men will hold him back from running out of the church, another six will ring the church bells, and ten men will hold the church doors shut.The fateful Sunday arrived and just as expected, the Troll waved her hand at the pulpit window. The priest immediately became enchanted and said the rhyme.All of the men jumped into action. While the men held the priest back from fleeing the church, the other men rang the church bells like crazy. When the troll heard the bells she fled into the gorge and was never seen again.

Random Fact of the Episode

Klifbrekkufossar is a seven tiered waterfall in Mjóifjörður that is worth seeing if you are in the area and have time to drive into this fjord.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Prestagil – Pastor’s Gorge

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Interviews are one of my favorite things to do for the podcast, so I was delighted when Laura was available to come on and share about her experience moving from the San Francisco Bay area to one of the most remote parts of the Westfjords in Iceland.

Background About Laura Alice Watt

Laura Alice Watt is a professor emerita of environmental history and policy at Sonoma State University in Northern California. She arrived in the Westfjords in July 2020 with a Fulbright-NSF Arctic Scholar grant to conduct historical research in Iceland, and decided to stay long-term.  She teaches occasional courses at the University Centre of the Westfjords, where she also provides writing support for graduate students with their thesis projects.Before taking early retirement from Sonoma State, she spent fifteen years as professor in the Department of Geography, Environment, and Planning, and also Graduate Coordinator for SSU's Cultural Resource Management masters program. She now lives on the northern shore of Dýrafjörður with her two cats, and is an avid photographer and knitter.

Questions I Asked Laura During the Interview

* Where did you grow up in the US?* What was your profession while living in the US?* What inspired you to come to Iceland?* When did you know you wanted to stay here?* Why did you choose the Westfjords to live in Iceland?* What do you like about living in Iceland?* What do you dislike about living in Iceland?* What do you miss from the US (if anything at all)?* Do you ever see yourself moving back to the US?* How has your Icelandic learning journey been since moving here?* What advice do you have for people who want to move to Iceland?* What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

Icelandic Phrase of the Episode

Glöggt er gests augað - Keen is the eye of the guest

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

What is a Skuggabaldur?

The Skuggabaldur is a fascinating animal in Icelandic folklore. Whether or not this type of animal really exists is hard to say but there are some interesting stories about it. A Skuggabaldur is created when a female arctic fox and a male cat or Tom cat get together and procreate.If a male arctic fox and a female cat procreate, it is called a Skoffín. However, we are just going to focus on the Skuggabaldur for this episode. These animals are known to have very intense bites that inflict a lot of pain and death. Guns are not much use against them unless you are using silver bullets.

The Most Popular Skuggabaldur Story

One day in the north, particularly near Blönduós, a Skuggabaldur had been inflicting a lot of damage on the livestock in the area. The farmers there decided to hunt it down. They did eventually find the animal in Blöndugil, which is a small canyon in the area. One of the hunters ended up stabbing it.Before the Skuggabaldur was killed, it said to tell the Tom Cat at Bollastaðir that the Skuggabaldur had been stabbed in the canyon. The people that were witnesses to this thought it was quite strange that this creature had a message for a cat but whatever.The person who ended up stabbing and killing the Skuggabaldur was staying in Bollastaðir that evening. As he was recounting his story about killing the Skuggabaldur, he repeated what the message the creature has said to tell the Tom Cat.Well, there was a Tom Cat listening in the rafters to the story and when he heard what the Skuggabaldur had said, it lept down to attack the man. It sunk its claws and teeth deep into the man’s neck and would not let go. The only way to stop the cat was to chop off its head. By that time, the man was already dead. I don‘t know if the Tom Cat was a relative of the Skuggabaldur but it certainly got revenge for its death.

Random Fact of the Episode

There is a book called “Skuggabaldur” by a well-known Icelandic poet and author named Sjón. In English, the book is called „The Blue Fox“. I have yet to read it but I want to. Apparently, knowing about the Skuggabaldur creature gives some deep insight into understanding all that is going on in this book.According to one reviewer of the book:"The Blue Fox," by Sjon, is a dark, yet playful and humorous fable about a kind man, an evil man, a simpleton, and a blue fox. It is about fate, life, and human nature. The novella deals with evil cloaked in religion and justice being delivered in mysterious ways. It is full of hidden meaning, subtlety, and delightful intellectually amusing diversions.”

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Skuggabaldur – roughly translates to a shadow cat

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Iceland's coffee culture is - deeply ingrained in the social fabric of Icelandic society. Along with being a drink that perks people up, grabbing a cup of coffee in Iceland is often a social interaction, where the drink is enjoyed in the company of others, many times in cozy settings. This communal aspect is so integral that offering coffee to guests is considered a basic hospitality gesture.

The Icelandic Coffee Scene in Downtown Reykjavík

Reykjavík, the heart of Iceland's coffee scene, is home to a plethora of unique cafés, each with its own character and offerings, but bound by the common thread of quality and creativity.Local cafes that offer high-quality coffee experiences thrive here. While there is no Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts in Iceland, even though Dunkin was here for a brief time, there is one international coffee chain called Joe & the Juice.However, local cafes dominate the coffee scene and I’m going to share some of them that might interest you if you also happen to be a coffee lover. This is not an exhaustive list by any means but it’s a great starting point for enjoying the Icelandic coffee scene.



Mokka Kaffi

Mokka Kaffi is a testament to Reykjavík's rich coffee history, being one of the city's oldest cafés. Established in 1958, it was the pioneer in introducing the Italian espresso culture to Iceland. Beyond its historic significance, Mokka Kaffi has been a cultural hub for artists and writers and continues to be celebrated for its classic ambiance, monthly art exhibitions, and iconic Icelandic hot chocolate and waffles.



Reykjavík Roasters

Reykjavík Roasters, originally known as Kaffismiðja Íslands, emerged in 2008 and has since become a cornerstone of Reykjavík's coffee culture. Their philosophy revolves around importing high-quality beans and roasting them meticulously to bring out the best flavors for coffee aficionados.The café takes pride in sourcing its beans directly from farmers, particularly in Colombia, ensuring ethical practices and respect for both the environment and the people involved in coffee production. This direct relationship with coffee farmers reflects the café's commitment to sustainability and ethical business practices.Reykjavík Roasters has established itself as a hub for serious coffee lovers, offering a range of coffee without decaf options, emphasizing the pure coffee experience. The cozy atmosphere, combined with the café's reputation for quality, makes it a place where people often share tables with fellow coffee enthusiasts, fostering a sense of community among its patrons.



Kaffitár Coffee House

Kaffitár represents the modern evolution of Icelandic coffee, with a focus on sustainability and quality. As a leading coffee provider, Kaffitár sources its beans from renowned coffee-growing regions and is known for its espresso bars, seasonal drinks, and as a wholesaler of coffee. Their presence in supermarkets across Iceland allows both locals and visitors to take a piece of Icelandic coffee culture home.



Café Babalú

Café Babalú, with its eclectic charm and vibrant orange exterior, stands out as a cozy retreat offering a range of coffee, cakes, and desserts. Known for its friendly atmosphere, it's a place where one can enjoy unlimited refills of black coffee, making it a favorite among both locals and tourists seeking a warm, welcoming space.



Te og Kaffi (Tea & Coffee)

a href="https://www.teogkaffi.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

Why Finnur is a Feared Sorcerer

A sorcerer named Finnur that lived a long time ago. So many people feared him and when he died no one wanted anything to do with the death, such as preparing the body or sewing up the shroud, which covers the dead body. Finally, one woman said she will sew the shroud. When she was doing it, some weird stuff was happening. It seems that even in death, Finnur had found ways to terrorize people. The antics that happened while she was trying to sew the shroud made her go mad.

Another Brave Woman Steps Up to Prep Finnur’s Body

After that, people were, of course, even more resistant to getting involved in prepping his body. However, another woman stepped forward and said she was up to the task. While she was sewing up the shroud it came to a point where she need to disconnect the needle from the thread, she witnessed something strange.The corpse of Finnur said to her “You have yet to bite the needle free from the thread”. Instead of being scared, the woman boldly said, “I don’t plan on biting it. I plan on yanking it free.” That is exactly what she did and after that she took the needle she had used, broke it into two pieces and stuck it into the corpses’ feet. After doing that, the corpse of Finnur stopped playing antics nor did it bother anyone else.I don’t know if putting needles into a corpses’ feet has some sort of significance, but I do think it is interesting that this specific action would shut him up.

Random Fact of the Episode

I am pretty sure that in a previous episode, I have spoken about the Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft Museum in Hólmavík in the Westfjords of Iceland. What might surprise people is that most of the people persecuted for doing magic in Iceland were men. At the museum, they showcases the documented executions of people who did magic and most of them happened in the Westfjords.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Galdramaður – sorcerer

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.