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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BOARD MEETINGS | Principle vs. Prescription in Climbing Training 40:39
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LikedPrompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training. This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics Board Meetings | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be? Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be? 29:45
29:45 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked29:45
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedPrompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? 53:40
53:40 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked53:40
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedPrompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which? This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Building Grade Pyramids vs. Towers 49:22
49:22 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked49:22
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedPrompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing? This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BOARD MEETINGS | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing 42:03
42:03 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked42:03
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedPrompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing? This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint | The Birth of Sport Climbing as We Know It 1:08:19
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushing grades in the 80's. The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit. The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger. The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's. The benefits of friendly competition at the crag. The first actual comps. Tribout playing the villain. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 Climbing 100 5.13's, My New Book, and Goals About Goals 13:11
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedAn update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's. Check out the new book!
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 EXPERT | Joy Black on Training for Pregnant Climbers, Trimester by Trimester 2:07:35
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedJoy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners. Check out all of Joy's courses . Sign up for Joy's newsletter . Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout! Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Sport Climber Experiences of Pregnancy and Return-to-Sport Postpartum Research Study Survey Teal Dreher’s Pregnancy & Postpartum Climbing blog Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West Beth Rodden | Climbing and Parenting Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Intro (00:02:05) How Joy Found this Niche (00:16:37) Empowerment and Vulnerability (00:31:31) Joy’s Overarching Philosophy (00:38:55) Disclaimers and Contraindications (00:41:48) First Trimester (00:44:07) ANNOTATION: Evidence Based vs. Evidence Informed (01:01:13) ANNOTATION: Beta for the Bump (01:10:50) Second Trimester (01:19:50) ANNOTATION: Diastasis, Deep Core, Linea Alba (01:36:23) Third Trimester (01:58:34) Wrap Up (02:04:48) Outro…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | A Blind Trio featuring Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca 1:32:12
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThis is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the conversation with each of them explaining their sight loss and their relationship to climbing. Follow EBC on Instagram . Follow Justin on Instagram . Follow Seneida on Instagram . Follow Chaz on Instagram . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BUILDER | Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg Are Pushing Their Sport Climbing Limits 1:28:07
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedLucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers. Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts . Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Tyler Algeo and Scott Pagel | Being Good Climbing Partners REMIX: EFFORT The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber Ebook Training Plans The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Intro (00:01:34) Meeting Noah and Lucia (00:10:39) Goals and Choosing a Plan (00:20:34) Fitting Training Into Life (00:29:39) How Did the Training Go? (00:36:07) Did Anything Surprise You? (00:42:42) How Much Do You Get Outside? (00:49:35) How Did the Training Show Up? (00:53:39) Fall Season After Training (00:58:15) Bit by a Bat on Route (01:06:10) Spring Season After Training (01:23:05) Wrap Up…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 MOVIE NIGHT | Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top 33:59
33:59 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked33:59
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top , released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 MOVIE NIGHT | Passion (featuring Jonathan Siegrist) 45:14
45:14 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked45:14
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Melissa Ruiz on Training with a Neurological Disorder 49:53
49:53 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked49:53
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedToday's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs , features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups. But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid climbing workshop at the Adaptive Climbers Fest in the Red River Gorge. Aid climbing is part of how Melissa has been able to access outdoor climbing with her disability, which is cerebral palsy. We pick up the conversation as she's explaining her condition and throughout the episode we talk about the importance of core strength, the joy of outdoor climbing, and what grades really mean . Follow Melissa on Instagram . Follow EBC on Instagram . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 TAPED TIPS | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill 15:53
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedOf all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back. Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Our Movement Practice Resource Page _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering 27:56
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Producer Monika McClure Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith Color Royal Muster/Greg Reese Graphics Ben Blanchard Sound Design and Mix David Fitzgerald _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi 41:05
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi , and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier. Watch the film. _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 Ravioli Biceps and Nate Drolet | The Parallels Between Climbing and Video Games 2:06:23
2:06:23 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked2:06:23
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedNate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing. Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram and YouTube . Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Check out our NEW Atomic Elements Movement Course . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Ravioli Biceps | Moonboard Benchmarking Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing Board Meetings | How To Make the Most of a Board Session _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique 23:48
23:48 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked23:48
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedImproving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb. It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Watch the video of Kris failing to commit. Read more and see the video for this episode on the blog . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber 55:50
55:50 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked55:50
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedAllyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community . Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025 , this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issues like postpartum recovery, and more – topics rarely explored in climbing media. Learn more about Hand Holds . Support the project through Seed & Spark. Support the project through The Gotham Film & Media Institute. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Climbing and Parenting with Beth Rodden Raising Them Right with Constance Lightner Mental Toughness with Emily Tilden Meghan Baker is a Not So Average Jane Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Theme (0:36) Introduction (1:40) Guest Introduction (3:32) Hand Holds Name Origin (8:48) Parenting for the Second Time (14:35) Modeling Passion (19:16) What is Hand Holds? (28:13) Who will be profiled? (30:18) Goals for Hand Holds (48:03) Where will it be? How can we help? (53:05) Wrap Up (54:34) Theme…
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1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Fallon Rowe on Learning Mental Gymnastics So Our Bodies Can Climb 56:16
56:16 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked56:16
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedFallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniques, like working on fear of falling, and analyzing movement and technique with video feedback and visualization.” Host Emily Chen-Newton and Fallon share a genetic collagen disorder (Ehlers-Danlos syndrome). In this conversation they talk how this condition impacts their climbing – and how Fallon coached Emily through some of these issues. Fallon also has a condition called, POTS which you'll hear mentioned in this episode. It's a dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system. Things that should be “automatic go haywire”, she says. So, her body doesn't properly regulate things like blood pressure, heart rate and temperature. Fallon’s main symptom is lightheadedness or pre-syncope (the feeling you get before you faint). Fallon is also a rock-climbing guide and teaches courses on trad climbing, anchor building, and more. She is sponsored by The Desert Rat, Cypher Climbing, HILX Eyewear, and Crux Power. Her education as a geologist gives her a deep connection to nature, and she loves playing the fiddle, shooting pool, wandering the desert, writing and photographing climbing. We start this episode with Fallon talking about a recent time when she was digging into some of those "non climbing" hobbies as she was recovering from a tendon tweak. BUT, as she tells us, this injury hit differently than others in the past -- in a good way. *While Fallon Rowe and host Emily both discuss their medical conditions and how they’ve learned to live with them, this content is not, and does not replace medical advice. Fallon can be reached on Instagram @fallonclimbs or on her website . Aug 2-4th workshop How to climb with hEDS Climbing with POTS What is hEDS? What is POTS? Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 BOARD MEETINGS | Our Favorite Effective Finger Strength Protocols 1:11:23
1:11:23 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:11:23
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThere are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Finger Strength Resource Page Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol? Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance? _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation (20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs (22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout (28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs (33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session) (38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall (44:07) 6:10 Repeaters (56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs (1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each (1:08:43) Outro…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 FOCUS Q&A 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks 56:24
56:24 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked56:24
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedBe the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1 , if you haven't already! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10) The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro (03:06) Finding the Best Beta (09:12) Strength vs. Movement (09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks (11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks (18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks (22:07) How to Know You’re Improving (27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement (28:58) How to Know What to Work On (31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm (36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves (41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip (43:46) False Start Hover Drill (48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing (51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards (55:11) Outro…
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You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now , because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now . The good news is that you don’t have to stop consuming all of the information and trying new things and learning as much as possible. You can keep at it. Collect it all. But... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller Our Movement Practice Resource Page The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber – Use code POD at checkout for 20% off! Find the Proven Plan That Fits You _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 FOCUS Q&A 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate 39:45
39:45 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked39:45
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedBe the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon! Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratterman, Matt, Martin Bertram, Lydia Benitez, and Yoav Pinto for the great questions! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:02) Movement Principles Specificity (5:14) Wall Angles (9:07) Conditions Affect Movement (13:40) Training with Bad Feet (19:50) Combined Movement and Energy Systems (25:02) Movement vs. Strength Questions (31:48) How to Evaluate Movement (37:52) Movement Assessment Tool…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller 13:48
13:48 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked13:48
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedShort climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Our Movement Practice Resource Page Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter? Applied Body Tension Ebook _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers? 45:54
45:54 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked45:54
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedToday we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement. This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022. ____________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast ____________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ 📚CHAPTERS (00:00) Notes From Kris (3:11) Introduction (6:48) Methods (15:37) Results and Our Thoughts (27:37) What Should Come Next? (34:34) Wrap Up (39:28) Credits and Theme…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go 32:50
32:50 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked32:50
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedBen Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that “letting go” in this episode. Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers . Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers , while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast . Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When she’s not reporting, she’s rock climbing with her husband and their two cats. Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show 1:15:24
1:15:24 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:15:24
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedToday's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part! Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show . Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram . Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Book a Remote Consultation with Nate _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing 1:45:20
1:45:20 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:45:20
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedUdo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing . He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world. In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, what makes Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki special, and what makes the Japanese team so good. Find Udo online at udini.com and on YouTube . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Performance Rock Climbing by Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard Episode 482: The Coaching Eye - How Reliably Can Expert Coaches Observe Movement? | The Perception & Action Podcast Cognitive Bias Codex Infographic from Visual Capitalist Coaching for Mastery Course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro and Guest Introduction (3:09) Have We Overemphasized the Physical? (7:26) Udo’s Transition to the Ecological Approach to Coaching (8:42) ANNOTATION: Bernstein, Degrees of Freedom, Repetition Without Repetition (14:54) Deliberate Play (29:32) The Athlete Doesn’t Need All of the Information (32:33) Does a Coach Need to Be Better Than the Climber? (34:57) Technique vs. Skill (40:02) Open and Closed Skills (40:52) ANNOTATION: Open and Closed Skill Continuums (45:51) Adaptability and Biases in Climbing (51:07) ANNOTATION: Marshmallow Test and Delayed Gratification (56:40) What Makes Janja Garnbret So Good? (59:20) Rhythm and Patience (1:02:01) How Does Udo Assess Movement Skills? (1:09:09) How Often Should We Give Explicit Instruction? (1:16:29) Using Video in Coaching (1:28:34) Are Comp Boulders Useful for Outdoor Climbers? (1:32:40) What’s the Secret of the Japanese Team and Tomoa Narasaki? (1:42:07) Wrap Up…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast
1 TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves 16:29
16:29 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked16:29
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedWhere's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout. But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Our Movement Practice Resource Page Coaching for Mastery Course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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